While St. Thomas and St. John are clustered tightly with the British Virgin Islands, their sister, St. Croix, sits alone forty miles south. It is less touristy, more relaxed and quite a bit bigger than those two islands combined. We have visited the island many times and love the laid-back vibe. There are no high-rise glitzy resorts or the annoying daily cruise ship tourists. The topography is beautiful, full of green rolling acres, blooming mango trees, miles of untouched coastline, and a quiet airport with just two baggage carousels.
After a short connecting flight through Miami and the ease of traveling without the need of a passport, we grabbed a rental car and made our way to the east end of the island. Just shy of the famous Buccaneer Resort entrance is a gated community called Shoy Estates, where we rent a beautiful villa for the week with friends and family. Sitting on more than three oceanfront acres, Kings House Villa is an open-air home incorporating old stone walls left from the island’s Danish ruins. With lily ponds, covered breezeways, four large bedrooms, a chef’s kitchen, swimming pool and plenty of space, we settle into island time with ease and enjoy the ocean view while watching boats sailing over to Buck Island, an uninhabited U.S. Reef National Monument just a few miles offshore from the villa. Vacation St Croix is a great booking site for private villas (vacationstcroix.com).
A short distance into the main town of Christiansted is the beautifully preserved Fort Christiansvaern, built by the Danish in 1749 to protect the city from their colonial rivals. Now a National Historical Site, the fortress is open for tours and visitors can climb its battlements for a sweeping view of the harbor. Other colorful historic buildings surround palm-shaded courtyards offering some exceptionally good restaurants and shopping. A unique souvenir item in St Croix is called Chaney, handcrafted jewelry made from pieces of china dating back to the 1750’s and found on the beaches and grounds of old Sugar Plantations when the island was thriving with rum production and sugar trade. On the harbor front you will find a charming boardwalk with more popular open-air eateries facing the sea.
By mid-week we meet the local fishers at the pier and buy freshly caught spiny lobsters to grill at the villa for a memorable dining experience in paradise. We also enjoy dining at a seaside restaurant called Duggens Reef on the East End Road at Teague Bay where Bostonian Frank Duggen has been frying up great fish and chips since 1983.
Driving along the North Shore will take you past awesome views of the ocean on one side, the rain forest on the other, and an occasional stop for a herd of goats crossing the road. The best food on the North Shore Road is Rowdy Joe’s, a Caribbean dive that makes a home brewed root beer mixed with ginger infused Cruzan rum for their own twist on a Dark & Stormy.
We never miss the chance to charter a private catamaran during our week’s stay! We highly recommend sailing with the wonderful Sandy Toes Sailing (book at sandytoessailing.com) where Captain Mike and his wife Erin will sail you around the island stopping to snorkel amidst the vibrant coral reefs and give you blissful beach time at small uninhabited islands where you can soak up the sun and feel the soft sand between your toes. Moreover, St. Croix offers excellent options for deep-sea fishing and scuba diving charters. I am sure St. Croix bemoans its position as the Cinderella of the U.S. Virgin Islands, but trust me, this underrated gem is pure magic. Both unpretentious and underdeveloped. From lush rainforests to rugged bluffs, every corner holds a new surprise. Let St. Croix sweep you off your feet and into a Caribbean fairytale!
