by Cindy Burch
My mother-in-law is in her eighties and has traveled quite a bit, yet Paris had somehow always
slipped through the cracks. Last year, she made a simple request: would I take her to Paris in the spring? She didn’t have to ask me twice.
We arrived on a brilliant, sunlit morning. We headed straight to the elegant Victoria Palace
Hotel, a boutique gem in the 6th arrondissement—one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris.
The area is quintessential Left Bank with the gorgeous Jardin du Luxembourg just steps away.
Iconic caféssit at every corner, bustling with Parisians and tourists sipping trendy cocktails.
Perfect for people watching.
After dropping our bags, we set off for lunch at Café Varenne, a beloved bistro famed for its
classic French comfort dishes. Its duck confit, roast chicken, and steak frites have earned a loyal following—including that of Ina Garten, author of many of my mother-in-law’s favorite cookbooks (besides mine, of course). Over lunch, we toasted to the beginning of our adventure. We then wandered through the chic aisles of Le Bon Marché, pausing to sample French perfumes before crossing the street to La Grande Épicerie de Paris, its gourmet counterpart. This sprawling food hall is a feast for the senses—artisanal cheeses, macarons in every flavor and color, crusty baguettes, and chilled bottles of champagne. We gathered yogurt, pastries, and a few treats for the hotel before strolling back to rest up before dinner. I prefer a good French bistro over a trendy Michelin restaurant, and dinner our first night at Chez L’Ami Jean never disappoints. Chef Stéphane Jego is known for his exceptional terrines and wild game dishes.
The next morning, we embraced the best antidote to jet lag: a café crème and croissant at
Carette near the Trocadéro as we mapped out a day of intense sightseeing. Early mornings at
the Trocadéro offer one of the most spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower before the crowds
descend. From there, we boarded a boat on the Seine headed toward Notre Dame Cathedral.
I hadn’t toured NotreDame in years, and seeing it again after its painstaking restoration was
breathtaking. To avoid long lines, we downloaded the official app and secured a free timed-entry
reservation for 8:00 a.m.—a small but invaluable strategy for anyone planning a packed itinerary.
From the cathedral, we strolled along the Seine to the Musée d’Orsay, housed in a former railway station and home to some of the world’s most iconic Impressionist masterpieces. I’ve always preferred it over the Louvre for its manageable size and intimate feel. After soaking in the art, we headed for lunch at Les Antiquaires, a pretty Parisian brasserie to fuel up before shopping at the legendary Galeries Lafayette, where its breathtaking Art Nouveau dome floods the grand hall with light as you work your way up the escalators to the rooftop terrace for spectacular views of the city.
Our third day was devoted to Monet’s Gardens in Giverny, about an hour outside Paris. We hired a guide through a company called The French Experience. The owner, Steve Leftist, picked us up at our hotel, shared insights into Monet’s life and inspirations, handled our entrance tickets, and even bought us lunch. Arriving early is essential to enjoy the beautiful gardens and Monet’s charming
home in all its glory, before tour buses crowd the small village.
Back in Paris, we continued our outdoor theme with dinner at Ralph’s. Though American, it’s
one of the city’s top dining spots, located within the flagship Ralph Lauren boutique in a historic
townhouse on Boulevard Saint-Germain. Dining in its courtyard—once a watering hole for horse-drawn carriages—felt magical, with striped cushions, crisp linens, and blue-and-white china.
The next morning was Saturday, my favorite day to spend at the famous flea market at Les Puces de Saint- Ouen. I can never resist digging through the back alleys or bargaining for an old copper pot to add to our collection—one of the main reasons I check a bag when traveling to Paris.
Our final day was spent outside Paris at the magnificent Palace of Versailles. We opted for a thirty-minute Uber drive so my mother-in- law didn’t have to walk from the train station and could save her energy for touring the palace, especially the famous Hall of Mirrors.
We also rented a golf cart and spent a glorious afternoon exploring the vast gardens with 50 fountains, 155 statues, and more than 200,000 trees. After a day immersed in the Baroque grandeur of Louis XIV, it seemed only fitting to dine at Le Procope, Paris’s oldest café since 1686 and once frequented by Voltaire, Rousseau, and Benjamin Franklin. Its antique décor and revolutionary ambiance were the perfect finale to a remarkable adventure.
As we flew home, I realized this trip had been more than checking Paris off a bucket list. It was about sharing something—lingering at a sidewalk cafe, standing in awe beneath gilded ceilings, wandering gardens Monet once painted, and savoring all the delicious food. In
her eight decades, my mother-in-law has seen much of the world, yet Paris still managed to surprise and enchant her. And watching the City of Light reveal itself through her eyes may have been the greatest gift of all.
-CINDY
