Although Fredericksburg is one of the most popular road trip destinations in the Lone Star state, it has been several years since my husband and I took a long weekend to soak in some Hill Country charm. Last month, we headed off with friends to check out some of the new wineries and restaurants we heard were popping up in Fredericksburg as fast as Texas wildflowers in the Spring. The scenic backroads drive was still the same through Hico, Hamilton and Evant on Highway 281, but as we got closer near Fredericksburg, the familiar landscape began to change. In the heart of the idyllic hill country setting where we used to see just pecan groves and cattle ranches, there now stand huge modern wineries, tasting rooms and microbreweries.
Five miles north of town we pulled into the site of our rented historic log cabin called Dogtrot at Triple Creek. Built in the 1800’s on Tennessee’s Cumberland River, the home was used as a makeshift hospital during the Civil War. It was disassembled and rebuilt on a Fredericksburg farm in 1997. We loved our stay as each side of the log home has separate living quarters with stone fireplaces and kitchenettes. It is a beautiful and perfect getaway for two couples. The large porch and breezeway made the perfect setting for drinking our morning coffee and sipping wine in the afternoon while watching white-tailed deer wander through the property daily. If you opt for more modern accommodations, I suggest The Trueheart Hotel, where breakfast baskets filled with hot buttermilk biscuits are delivered to guests in each of the property’s 13 cottages outfitted with Pierre Frey fabrics and locally sourced antiques.
As we set out each day for wine tastings, it was amazing to see the growth from our last trip when Becker Vinyards was about the only winery to visit. There are now over 60 tasting rooms in the area. One of our favorites was Alexander Vineyards, with live music and delicious gourmet bites paired with great European wines. We also enjoyed the tasting room of Ferris and Fletch, a family-owned winery located on Main Street where owner and winemaker, Rarig Ross, is primarily using California grapes to make his impressive wines. Safari Winery, Grape Creek Vineyards and Halter Ranch are other popular options to visit as well. Most wineries require a reservation and will cost about $30 per person for 5 tastings.
Main Street in Fredericksburg used to be a place to spend an afternoon poking around the antique shops and cute gift stores before picking up a flat of sweet Hill Country peaches from a fruit stand and driving home. Now the rows of storefronts in the historic limestone buildings are filled with more stylish shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars. There is still a small-town charm to the place, but hipper. The fast-growing wine scene has ushered a broader entrepreneurial energy into Fredericksburg as well as an influx of adventurous transplants. Chef Jordan Muraglia and artist Richard Boprae were some of the first to take Main Street up a notch when they turned a three-story landmark building into an art gallery and upscale restaurant called Vaudeville. I especially enjoyed browsing a home décor shop called Blackchalk Home & Laundry and their neighbor Carol Hicks Bolton Antiquites, a huge warehouse full of wonderful old European finds. In an ornate gingerbread-style home just off the main square, you will find San Saba Alchemic, a luxe fragrance and soap line made with cold-pressed oil from Texas pecans.
Another couple on the restaurant scene is John and Evelyn Washburn, whose Otto’s German Bistro serves upscale dishes that tap into the town’s German history. They also own several other Fredericksburg restaurants, including the popular farm-to-table Alla Campagna. In addition, award-winning chefs Amy and Hunter Huffman have recently opened Mesquite in the Warehouse, a modern concept that features slow-smoked meats, fresh salads and gourmet sandwiches in the old Woerner Warehouse Feed Store. Hill & Vine is another not-to-miss restaurant and a great Sunday brunch option. We finished our last day with a drive out to the famous Enchanted Rock, a sacred (holy) place for the Native Americans who lived there long ago. The enormous pink granite dome has 11 miles of hiking trails, and it’s one of the most visited in our Texas state parks. The German immigrants who settled in the area in 1846 would be amazed to find how Fredericksburg’s food, wine and culture have diversified into such a sophisticated destination and how it seems like everyone is heading for the hills these days.
