Ellis County Master Gardeners are ready for the sun!

Planting

» Plant heat-loving annuals including copper plant, firebush, gomphrena, lantana, pentas, purple fountaingrass and ornamental sweet potato in sunny areas.

» In shady spots, plant caladiums, begonias, coleus, impatiens (mildew-resistant types).

» Seeds of celosia, cosmos, marigold, morning glory, portulaca and zinnia can be sown directly in the beds. Keep seeded area moist until seeds germinate.

» Achimenes, cannas, dahlias and other summer flowering bulbs can be planted now.

» Establish new lawns before summer heat sets in. Sow seeded varieties of Bermudagrass early in the month; or sod Bermuda or St. Augustine grass. Water daily for first few weeks to develop a good root system.

 

Fertilizing and Planting

» Feed fruit trees, perennials, annuals, ground covers and vines with a lawn fertilizer (3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio).

» Fertilize tomatoes and most other vegetables every other week for productive and vigorous plants.

» Manually thin the fruit on peaches, pears, plums and apples to 5-6 inches apart early in the month.

» Prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines soon after flowering. Keep the natural shape of the plant in mind as you prune, and avoid excessive cutting except where necessary to control size. Deadhead roses and other reblooming plants.

» Allow foliage of daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs to mature and yellow before removing.

 

Garden Watch

» Allow bluebonnets and other reseeding, annual wildflowers to die and the seeds to dry before mowing the stubble. Delay mowing until end of growing season if other wildflowers are growing in the area.

» Check tomatoes for signs of early blight (yellow blotches on lower leaves). Apply a labeled fungicide if needed. Keep soil adequately moist to prevent blossom-end rot (browned tissue on bloom end of fruit).

» Look for squash bugs in early morning. Destroy eggs found on underside of leaves by hand. Vegetable pests can often be controlled by mechanical, biological or organic means rather than by synthetic pesticides.

» Watch for bagworms on junipers and other narrow-leafed evergreens. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or general insecticide at first sign of larvae feeding. Remember that once the bag has formed, your only option is to manually pull them off.

» Make initial application of Image® or SedgeHammer® to control nutsedge in established warm-season lawns.

 

Conservation-Wise

» Efficient irrigation is essential! Inspect your automated watering system. Look for pipe and valve leaks, breaks, sprinkler heads clogged or misaligned. Consult a licensed irrigator for repairs and/or upgrades.

» Replace older irrigation controllers with new models equipped with water-conserving settings, or a smart controller which uses evapotranspiration or moisture sensors to determine runtime.

» Apply 1”-2” of compost (mushroom, cotton burr, etc.) or wheat straw as a mulch in your vegetable garden to conserve moisture.

Planting

» Buy and plant crape myrtles in bloom to be sure you are getting the desired color. Know the variety’s mature size to avoid future pruning. Ask for varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew.

» This is the best time to plant vinca (periwinkle) in full sun. Look for the variety ‘Cora’ since it is resistant to soil-borne diseases. Water with drip irrigation or soaker hose to keep water off foliage.

» Plant these tropical annuals for their flowers: tropical hibiscus, ‘Gold Star’ esperanza, mandevilla and Mexican heather. Use croton, bougainvillea and variegated tapioca for their foliage color.

 

Fertilizing and Planting

» It is time for the second application of an all-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer on turf grasses. Cut the amount by half to prevent excessive growth which means more water and mowing!

» Fertilize container plants and hanging baskets with a water-soluble fertilizer every week or two.

» Prune back autumn sage and mealy cup sage by one-third their size. Deadhead salvias, as well as annuals and perennials, to stimulate new growth to allow the plant to continue re-blooming until late fall.

» Continue to prune as necessary, fall- blooming plants such as Mexican bush sage, mountain sage, Mexican mint marigold, copper canyon daises, asters and mums to keep them compact and to prevent buds from forming prematurely. Don’t prune after September 1 when buds begin to form.

» Remove flower stalks on coleus, caladiums, lamb’s ear and basil before buds open. This will promote new leaf

 

Garden Watch

» Take a critical look at your landscape while at the height of summer development. Make notes on how the landscape can be better arranged; plants that need replacement, overgrown plants that need to be removed; or possibly, areas that can be converted to more family- friendly activities. Save this information for implementation later in the year or next spring.

» Control aphids on crape myrtles with a strong spray of water.

» Spider mites can be troublesome, especially on tomatoes. Treat with an appropriate organic or synthetic pesticide.

» Control webworms in pecan and other trees using a pole pruner. Remove while webs are small.

» Wrap the trunks of newly-planted shumard oak and Chinese pistache trees to prevent sunscald and borers.

 

Conservation-Wise

» Properly designed, water-efficient landscapes need one inch of water per week. To determine how long to run an irrigation system to apply an inch of water, conduct a catch can test. For details, go to https://wateruniversity.

» Water without creating runoff! In clay soils, systems may apply water faster than it can be absorbed. Use the “cycle and soak method” by watering in 2 or 3 short cycles instead of one long cycle. Newer controllers have a cycle and soak setting.