Known as the San Francisco of Europe, Lisbon is built on seven hills. The sun shines most every day across acres of red-tiled rooftops sitting on steep cobblestone streets with their facades covered in hand-painted azulejo (tiles). On one of the hills sits the Moorish ruins of São Jorge Castle, a fortress which has dominated the city for more than 1,000 years. Lisbon is also home to some of the best restaurants in Europe, and arguably the world.
We arrived from Madrid on a beautiful morning and checked into the lovely Alma Lusa boutique hotel in the Baixa-Chiado district. The location is one of the best in the city’s historic center, just one block from the majestic Praça do Comércial waterfront square and train station.
Walking is often an uphill climb in Lisbon, but taxis and trams are readily available and there are funiculars and even a huge street elevator providing quick and easy access to the hillier districts. We love exploring the maze of alleyways and the unexpected squares filled with palm trees. The Chiado neighborhood is full of trendy restaurants. On our first afternoon we found the popular Barrio do Arillez market where fresh baked breads, olives, cheese and cured smoked meats are served with red wine or crisp vinho verde (green wine) for a perfect snack. Later in the evening we dined at a wonderful little neighborhood gem called Canto da Vila…a small authentic café with terrific food
and great service. I ordered the bacalhau, a cod fish that is the most popular dish in Portuguese cooking.
Day two led us to Belém, a picturesque district west of Lisbon on the banks of the Tagus River and famous for the sinfully delicious custard tart called pastel de nata at Pasteis de Belém bakery. However, the star attraction is Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a 16th century monastery that is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site. From there we walked through the grounds to the harbor and enjoyed lunch at the marina.
One of my favorite places for shopping is called A Vida Portuguesa, specializing in local products ranging from hand-milled soaps to stationery, embroidered linens, and gourmet food and wines. Around the corner is the famousCervejaria Ramiro, the 60 year old family-owned restaurant focusing exclusively on shellfish, most of which are swimming in massive tanks that line the restaurant's walls. We peeled and ate delicious scarlet shrimp, clams in garlic sauce, and tried goose barnacles until we were so full we couldn’t eat the traditional steak sandwiches they serve for “dessert”. If you are looking for more options than just seafood, try the Time Out Food Market in the Bairro Alto district where over 40 of the best bars and restaurants in the city pop up daily in artisan stalls and serving amazing bites.
Not far from Lisbon is the picturesque town of Sintra, another UNESCO World Heritage site. Set amidst pine-covered hills, it was a clear and crisp morning as we drove up the forested mountain to the beautiful Pena Palace while catching glimpses of its twin conical chimneys through the trees. Back in the town of Sintra we shopped for beautiful handmade linens and pottery before enjoying a long al fresco lunch on the grounds of the Tivoli Palace Hotel and then drove through Cascais, a Portuguese fishing town situated on the western edge of the beautiful Lisbon coastline.
We spent our final night in the city’s oldest hilltop quarter where you will find numerous bars playing Lisbon’s version of folk music called Fado, a mixture of soulful vocals and a Portuguese 12-string guitar. We chose the well-known Casa de Linhares. Built into the ruins of an aristocratic house that was destroyed in the earthquake of 1755, crowds fill the vaulted stone cellars and enjoy a traditional Portuguese dinner while being entertained by the melancholic Fado music that literally means “fate” or “destiny”.
There are dozens of reasons to love Lisbon. On top of what I have already shared, it is Western Europe’s least expensive capital full of friendly people who are proud of their country and enjoy sharing it with tourists.
Spend a few days with no agenda. Get lost in the time warp of the historic neighborhoods, eating fresh seafood, and enjoying the sunset views from a rooftop terrace. You will fall in love… just like I did.
